Mastering Men's Style
In men's fashion we have three specific jackets that are used for both formal and casual wear. You would think that the limited number of categories for a jacket would make it easy to understand their differences and when they are best utilized. Unfortunately, however, thanks to many fashion companies labeling these products simply as "blazers", it's become significantly more difficult to decipher this. In this blog, I hope to shed a little more light on the subject. It will be brief and to the point, distinguishing each of their characteristics and what occasions they are best suited for.
Suit Jacket
First and foremost, a suit jacket is the pinnacle of formality. Usually made from fine wool or wool-blend fabric, it is designed to be worn as part of a matching suit with a dress pant. With careful consideration you can get away with matching jackets to other suit pants, but it will always look the most coherent when paired with its intended counterpart.
The construction of a suit jacket differs from the other two as well. Components like shoulder padding and canvas give a suit jacket a more rigid and tailored look, providing a very flattering silhouette of the wearer. When it comes to color and design, suits are normally more reserved, opting for standard colors and discrete patterns in the fabric. Some plaids and window type patterns are formal enough to be used for suits, but these are exceptions to the rule. The fabric itself is usually smooth, forgoing textures that you might otherwise see on a sport coat.
The Blazer
Out of these three, the blazer has the most specific criteria as to what actually be defines it. With its origins in the British Navy, blazers definitely have a more nautical feel than its suit and sport cousins. Not as rigid as a suit jacket, but not as relaxed as a sport coat, the blazer is an interesting middle ground with some very specific characteristics.
First is color. Unlike suit jackets, blazers can enjoy some flexibility here. Technically, the standard for blazers are solid colors, most often navy blue. However, you can find blazers in bright reds, greens, alternating red and blue stripes, etc. Today, the usage of color is quite liberal, with some clubs opting for very flamboyant colorways to make their blazers stand out. Patterns are not so flexible in this category, but you can definitely find contrasting piping and/or stripes in the fabric. The image to the left, a product from Walters of Oxford in Oxford, England, is a prime example.
Second, the buttons usually contrast with the rest of the blazer by being gold or brass colored. One again, this harkens back to the blazer's naval heritage.
Lastly, in it's evolution as a garment for the masses, blazers grew in popularity as a jacket to wear that displayed membership to certain clubs. Therefore, you'll find many blazers dawned with a crest where the left breast pocket would be.
The Sport Coat
While the most casual of the jackets, sport coats definitely deserve some room in your closet. How do you spot one? Well, luckily the differences between this and its suit cousin are easy to spot.
Like the blazer, the sport coat is a standalone piece that is made to be worn with trousers, but it is made from more casual fabrics such as tweed, herringbone, or corduroy. Its structure is casual, favoring a more relaxed fit than the suit or blazer, and may feature more intricate details, such as elbow patches, flap pockets, or contrast stitching. (Image credit from Oliver Wicks)
Sport coats will come as a very versatile selection for your outfits as they still allow you to look polished and composed while benefiting from a more informal feel. Have fun with them. That's what they're made for!